As a pool owner, you probably have a rough idea of how to keep your pool clean and the water looking good. But are you doing it right? A swimming pool is a sophisticated piece of equipment. Don’t expect to know everything about it without asking questions or you'll find yourself with smelly water, a green pool and hair to match!

Keeping fifty tons of open water in crystal clear condition isn’t easy. A pool comes under assault from algae and fungal spores, garden debris, rain, sun, wildlife, pets, building/quarry/road dust and many other pollutants. Then humans get into the water and add their share of sun-oils, hair, dead skin, body fats and urine - (yes, I'm afraid kids still do). When pools go bad, they can go bad really quickly.

A properly maintained pool is both visually and biologically clean. You can tell if it’s visually clean just by looking at it, but ‘biologically clean’? How will you know? Use a test kit to measure your pool’s chlorine and pH levels. (Your pool-shop can show you how). If you maintain the correct chlorine and pH levels bacteria and algae will be killed, your pool will be ‘biologically clean’ and you will never be troubled by algae.

‘pH’ refers to the acidity/alkalinity level of your pool water. pH is vital because, unless it’s within a certain range, the chlorine can’t interact chemically with the bacteria and algae it’s supposed to kill.

In other words, unless your pH range is properly adjusted, chlorine won’t help keep your pool as clean as it should be. Most pool owners don’t realise how important the pH level is. The proper range is 7.2 - 7.6.

Measure your pool’s current pH level. If it’s too high (your test kit tells you how to determine that), add ‘pH minus.’ If it’s too low, add ‘pH plus.’ ‘pH minus’ & ‘pH plus’ are stocked by your pool-shop.

Next check the chlorine level. The ideal residual chlorine level is 1 - 3 parts per million (ppm).

Different types of chlorine are available but we recommend just one type: - Any chlorine, granular, powdered or tablets that is described as ‘Stabilised Trichlor’, because it’s very effective in fighting bacteria and algae, it’s very easy to use, and it lasts 4 to 5 times longer than liquid bleach, shock chlorine or calcium hypochlorite. Stabilised Trichlor may cost more initially, but will save you money in the long run. The sun will destroy liquid chlorine (‘shock’) or calcium hypochlorite after 4 hours. Stabilised Trichlor will keep working for over 24 hours when dissolved, so more chlorine is left in the water to do the job of sanitising, and less is wasted by being burned off by the sun. Stabilised Chlorine will last longer than 2-3 times the amount of unstabilised chlorine.

For most pools we recommend using the 200 grams slow dissolving ‘hockey puck’ tablets.

With pH at 7.4, one of these tablets (per 50 cubic metres of water) will raise the Free Chlorine by 1.5 ppm. Mix granulated or powder chlorine with water in a bucket first. This ensures that you don't stain your pool. Remember, add chemicals to water, never water to chemicals. Always wash your hands after handling chemicals.

Tablets are easier to use; put them either into your skimmer basket or, if you have one, your chlorine feeder. One tablet for each 50 cubic metres is typical, but you may need more in the really hot weather, or after a rainstorm.

Along with the up-keep of pH balance and chlorine level, there are several other important aspects of pool maintenance. These include vacuuming, back-washing, super-chlorination, pump-room operations and an understanding of your own filtration/circulation system. We cover all of these subjects and much more on our PoolSchool course, which is customised to each individual pool and taught at your own pool.

PoolSchool Graduates learn all about looking after their own pools - and they get a PoolSchool Book! (RRP€15)

Ken Walker is the Director of PoolSchool and Deep Blue Pools. Contact 952 499 059. Copyright remains with Author

Ken Walker, PoolSchool and Deep Blue Pools. Contact info@poolschool.eu